PHOTOS & WORDS: Fabio Bylaardt LOCATION: Oʻahu, Hawaii DATE: Sunday December 22nd, 2024
As a huge swell reared its head inside the window for one of O'ahu’s most prestigious big wave contests, the Eddie Aikau Invitational, a group of foilers paid their own tribute to the legendary Hawaiian waterman by seeking out an alternative and crowd-free location to take on the very same waves.
In late December 2024, a massive North Pacific storm roared to life, unleashing its energy across thousands of miles. Surfers and ocean enthusiasts around the globe held their breath as forecasts confirmed their hopes: conditions were shaping up to trigger the prestigious Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational in Hawaii. On Friday, December 20, the announcement was made – the Eddie was officially a go for Sunday. Waimea Bay on O'ahu’s North Shore was set to host the world’s elite big wave surfers, with waves worthy of the legendary Eddie Aikau’s name. While thousands of spectators planned their journey to witness history, our small group of foilers saw an opportunity of a different kind.
On Saturday night, we made a choice some might call unconventional, if not sacrilegious: we wouldn’t join the masses at Waimea Bay. Instead, we would chase the same historic swell on our foils, away from the crowds, in a quieter corner of O'ahu. For many, seeing the Eddie in person is a once-in-a-lifetime experience – a chance to witness surfing history up close. But for us surfers, the pull of the ocean is undeniable. When conditions are this extraordinary, the call to ride often outweighs the call to spectate.
At dawn on Sunday, my brother Raimar “Ray” Bylaardt and I launched the jet ski into the water. The air was cool, the winds barely a whisper, and the swells rolling in were already massive. The excitement for foiling these waves was so intense that I forgot my camera, a realization that came only after we had already launched.
The morning unfolded in a rush of joy and focus. Each wave felt like a gift from the ocean, bigger and more powerful than anything we’d foiled before. Riding these giants on a hydrofoil was a surreal experience. The foil lifts you above the water’s surface, allowing you to glide over the chaotic chop and connect sections of the wave that would otherwise be impossible to ride. For hours, we caught wave after wave, experiencing a special connection with the discipline of hydrofoiling and gratitude for the sport occurring in our lifetime.
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Back on the water, we met with two foil friends, Matt Garrison and Paul McDonnell. Their excitement mirrored ours as they prepared to join the lineup. With my camera in hand, I took on the role of photographer, documenting the graceful lines and breathtaking speed of our crew as they continued to chase waves.
Wave after wave, Ray, Matt, and Paul showcased the elegance and precision of foiling. The swells remained pristine, rolling in like liquid mountains. Watching from behind the lens, I could see the pure joy and focus on their faces as they rode.
Each rider brought their own style to the waves. Ray’s turns were smooth and drawn out, emphasizing the foil’s fluidity. “The key is respect,” said Ray. “Respect the ocean, respect the wave, and respect the gear. You don’t come out here thinking you’re invincible. You come out here knowing the ocean is in charge.” Ray was riding a North setup equipped with the Sonar Series SF680 wing on a C600 fuse, paired with a S185 tail, mounted on a AF85 mast and a custom Essential Stilet-tow 4’0” board, shaped by Mark Morgan.
Matt’s dynamic approach highlighted the speed and agility of the gear. “It’s all about finding the balance,” Matt added. “The foil lets you connect parts of the wave in a way that feels almost effortless, but you have to trust your instincts and your equipment.”
Paul’s lines were bold and confident, a testament to his experience and comfort in big conditions. “Foil surfing big waves is like writing your own story on the ocean’s canvas,” Paul said. “Every line you draw reflects your choices and your courage.” Paul and Matt were riding the AXIS Spitfire 780 wing on a 700 ADV+ fuse paired with a 325P tail, shimmed at +1.5%, mounted on a 105 Ultra Pro mast and a 125cm Tray board.
Regarding the unusual drag-inducing shim angle, Paul explained, “There was turbulence pushing out from the channel through a section of the break on the inside, which sometimes caused the system to dive violently and unexpectedly at high speeds. Matt and I found that by shimming aggressively, we could navigate the rough sections with more stability and reduce the diving behavior even if it slowed us down some.” After a thoughtful pause, Paul added, “Speed isn’t everything in waves of consequence. Survival is.”
By mid-afternoon, fatigue set in. The swell was still firing, but we knew it was time to call it a day. Riding waves of this magnitude is a humbling experience. It demands respect for the ocean, for your equipment, and for the people who share the lineup with you. The day reinforced why we love this – connecting with nature, camaraderie with fellow riders, and the unparalleled thrill of gliding above the water on waves that stretch to the horizon.
The Eddie was still in full swing at Waimea Bay, where the world’s top surfers were putting on a breathtaking show. The event honors Eddie Aikau, a man who embodied the spirit of Aloha, who lived and died by his commitment to others and the ocean. While we weren’t at Waimea, we carried the same respect and reverence for the sea that Eddie’s legacy represents.
For us, this day was personal. We had experienced the storm’s energy not as spectators, but as participants in our own small corner of the ocean. As we packed up our gear, tired but smiling, we knew we had made the right choice. The Eddie might have been the headline act, but for us, the storm offered its own stage – a chance to test our limits, embrace the unknown, and, above all, share the stoke.
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